Applying Different Manipulation Tactics Together

In previous articles I wrote about making shooting holes and hinge cutting trails. So when I was cutting lanes this past week for a new stand I thought I should illustrate how I applied these manipulation tactics.  This stand which is going to be occupied by my uncle has been a plan in the making since last year. His stand in its old location proved to be useless for various reasons which is material for its own article. All I will say is my uncle was getting discouraged to say the least and it didn't take much convincing for him to want to move it.

In order for me to explain this in detail I first have to give you an overview of what I am attempting to achieve with this new location.  His new spot is located on the edge of native grass and elder brush. It is tucked in to 45 year old spruce trees that separate a corn field from a cedar swamp overlooking the grassy staging area. To prep this area for future success, this past summer we cut the bottom limbs off of the spruce trees bordering the field edge. Doing this allows the deer to see the field from the staging area behind the trees. In the past the deer avoided this area all together because their visibility was limited. Since we have cut these limbs the deer have been using this area a lot more and it is evident with the abundance of rubs. I have also hingecut areas behind the staging area in order to make a bedding area.  Being in a cedar swamp I started with a small section last winter to see how well it would take. After seeing is how it is being used, this winter I have expanded the hingecut area to include several high spots to hold several deer to bed. With the stand being between a food source and a man made bedding area the only thing left is to enhance their travel.

So now the idea is to manipulate the deer to travel in designated areas to maximize shot potential. To do so I walked through the staging area to locate their natural travel routes. I then walked these trails while looking back towards the stand to find the areas where I would cut the least amount of vegetation in order to open it up. The idea is to leave it as undisturbed while making shooting lanes. Once I found two lanes to be cut I began hingecutting smaller saplings around the optimal shooting spot to create a false sense of security to a buck.  Doing this also obscures their vision to the stand which will give my uncle a little more freedom to move before he takes a shot. Once that was done I began cutting the shooting lane back towards the stand. By doing this it is much easier to see what really needs to get cut versus cutting from the stand out. As I got closer on to the stand on one of the lanes I cut higher up the brush in order to create a hole versus a lane.  This way when a deer scans the area they see more of what they always have versus a definitive lane.  The other lane however is a little more open because there are different points in which trails cross. 
We will have to see how this stand produces in the years to come and you can bet I will add an update following the next season.  Until then I hope this article gives you an idea of how different tactics can be used together to increase your odds.

Easy Deer Manipulation Tricks

Their is no better way to maximize your chances at bagging a mature deer than by deer manipulation.  This style of hunting preparation is especially crucial to the bow hunter who has a family and limited time to spend in the tree.  Beware though, once you get positive results you will be hooked.  Here is my story on the first time I was successful:"The Day I Was Hooked On Deer Manipulation"   When considering if this is for you rest assured anyone can do it whether you own the property or not.  Deer manipulation is based on one rarely disputed fact of deer.  They like to travel on the path of least resistance.

Before attempting some of the more permanent tactics I explain below make sure you know and consider the overall needs and movements of the deer. For example where I hunt I have a small river roughly 60 acres away and the deer naturally go between my hunting property which has dense cover and that river.  Your efforts will never stop that travel nor should you ever try because it is much easier to use it than try and change it.  Most manipulation efforts can be done for minimal cost to you but not without sweat equity.

The first tactic is called hingecutting.  This style of manipulation will reap the best results but not without a trade off.  It is reserved for the hunters who own their own property because it is permanent.  Hingecutting is simply cutting a tree partially down in order to create cover or a barrier depending on your needs.  In my earlier post Hingecutting: Soup To Nuts I explain exactly how it is done and many of its uses.  I mention it here as one of the best ways to manipulate deer and I wouldn't suggest doing it unless you own the property however it can be done on smaller scales.  Usually it is illustrated using 6" to 9" diameter trees but it can be just as successful with small saplings when used to create barriers.  For the smaller saplings it is much safer to use a machete instead of a chainsaw.  When applying this method to small saplings it will only hold its desired effect for a single season or two.

Fence cutting is another trick that can be used to change the movement of deer.  Many hunting properties including mine come with decades old barbwire fence lines.  Most of these fences are knocked over or left to be forgotten.  They usually follow field edges or property lines.  Now I am not going to sell you the notion these old fences hold the key to bagging the big buck.  I will however tell you that if you simply cut an opening in a standing fence you will be able to predict where the deer will travel because chances are they cross at the easiest point.  Simply make a desired location the easiest to cross and they will.  When thinking outside the box, you can imagine how putting a fence up will dramatically change your deer patterns as well.  I used this method successfully a few years ago which allowed my late cousin to bag a trophy before his time was up.

Now how many of you hunters have a stand located over a large corn field?  If you do then you probably have observed deer coming and going with no rhyme or reason to their travel.  If you apply the idea that deer will use the path of least resistance you will find you can manipulate their path right past your deer stand.  I wish I had discovered this method years before I had for I would have some nice trophies on the wall.  All you have to do is take a machete and cut one row of corn down and like magic they will start walking down that row.  You don't have to cut an entire row down from one end of the field to the other.  All you have to do is remove the row approximately twenty or thirty yards into the corn field.  If it isn't yielding results then extend it further and further in to the field till you see sign of them using it.  Again you aren't going to make a deer travel north and south that wants to go east and west but you can move a deer trail over to you instead of having to relocate your stand.

The one often overlooked manipulation effort is giving them fresh water.  This method is considerably more labor intensive but it yields results.  Many hunters will share the notion that rutting bucks will skip out on food but can not skip out on water.  With that said, many bucks will scan a food plot from a distance but not stop to eat.  These same bucks will scan a bedding area from a distance as well.  Like any animal, bucks can not go without water.  So the question becomes what kind of water do they want.  Applying common sense would tell me that if you could provide a quiet secluded watering hole they would much use that than a river or lake which provides less cover and more danger.  Again be careful because this method is often times permanent.  I will not go in to detail on how to achieve the perfect watering hole but I will stress that it should be quiet and secluded.  Hingcutting trees around the area might prove beneficial but each property holds its own needs.

Where I hunt we are not in shortage of agriculture.   I can not even begin to tell you how much food the deer have to eat but I will just say hundreds of acres.  If you hunt over a field or an area like this I will give you another play from my secret bowhunting playbook.  The idea is to make the crops within shooting range more appealing than the rest.  To accomplish this you can do two things.  First fertilize the area within range to get the crops to grow better than the rest of the field.  Next take small section of fence to secure off a certain spot.  For this I found using rigid fence wrapped in a circle with a five foot diameter works best because you don't have to monkey around with fence posts.  All this fence is going to do is prohibit the spot from being eaten.  The night or morning before you hunt take the fence off of the untouched crops and take a weed trimmer to cut the tops off.  By doing this you will get the fresh scent in the air.  Climb in your stand and wait.  They will be coming.  Just remember that if you utilize this trick for a morning hunt you want to cut it the night before but remove the fence that morning.  I also challenge you to put a motion camera over the spot.

I hope this article gives you some tools to get started.  Like I have warned you earlier; once you get positive results doing this you will become a manipulation junkie like me.  Remember that some of these methods are permanent so get permission when necessary and proper planning is a must.

Deer Calling, Blind Grunting, & Everything Inbetween

Using deer calls while hunting can be a tricky thing. The experiences I have had with calls has dictated the way I use and view them. To be honest there is no way someone can tell you what exactly works and doesn't because each property and especially region is different. Someone like myself who is located in Northern Wisconsin is gonna have a different view point than someone who lives in the southern part of the country. One thing is for sure however, someone attempting to learn should not rely on the professionals who have TV shows. Its not that they are doing it wrong its just they are applying methods for the area they are hunting. And most of the "professionals" are hunting an area with a heavily controlled herd with strict doe to buck ratios. Even the "free range" deer they hunt on film are still on large tracks of controlled property. So in other words the tips and methods I will convey to you are based on hunting on small plots of private property surrounded by more small properties which I have no control over.

The best success I have had calling has been since I started monitoring my herd via motion cameras set to video. A camera set to video over an active scrape can show you the aggression level of the bucks in your area. Each buck has a personality and once you find the buck you are after you can curtail your calling to him.

I always try to apply common sense to all my hunting endeavors and it is no different for calling so here it goes. Aggressive bucks tend to be dumber than less aggressive bucks during rut. So if you call aggressively you are more likely to call in an aggressive deer looking to fight. Naturally then aggressive bucks will be seen more frequently than other bucks therefore their life expectancy is lower. So it has been my experience that the bigger the bucks in an area of more hunting pressure tend to be less aggressive. So when hunting areas with more pressure one wants to consider a few things to be the most effective.

The first rule to follow. Don't watch a hunting show just before going in the woods. This rule is partly a joke but mostly serious. Those hunts are done on land with large buck to doe ratio which makes the rut more competitive. With having a low number of does to breed with, those bucks are forced to fight over them more. It is a simple form of supply and demand. If you are reading this article you are most likely hunting on a property not managed that closely therefore you need to consider the differences.

The second rule to follow, when using any call you have to put yourself in the mind of a buck. If you were a buck in an area that has an abundance of hunters all trying to call you in to them; it wouldn't take you long to figure out when a call is a fake. In other words you want to make it more believable. To accomplish this I rarely only use one call at a time if I don't have any visible deer. For example, I will not use a doe bleet call without accompanying it with a grunt call. Same goes with ratteling. If two bucks are fighting or "ratteling" in real life, there will surely be other sounds going with it. In an attempt to recreate this I will sometimes break branches, rustle leaves, or grunt. With that said I will usually overlap the two calls so I can sell the production even more. Being a horn hunter and knowing the bigger ones tend to be less aggressive, I usually am light on my calling.

Secondly, you do not want to overcall. To set up your calls in order to appeal to bigger bucks, again you want to put yourself in the mind of that weary buck. Being less aggressive on properties with a lot of pressure, big bucks generally won't go running in to the call without checking out the area first. So you want to allow them time to come in and investigate the area which most likely will be from where you can't see their approach. In return, if you stay still instead of calling again they might present themselves to you instead of them seeing you as you start your next calling sequence.

So when should a person call for deer? Again each property is different and each informed hunter is a master of his or her own area. For this question I will simply tell you things that work for me. I have had excellent luck calling bucks at two crucial times. The first time I will never miss during rut is the few minutes before you can see in the morning. This specific time allows you to pull a buck away from entering his bed to instead investigate the call. It also is perfect because they cant physically see you yet. The second time is controversial and gutsy but I will share it anyway. I like to do a bleet and grunt series the moment after I get in my tree and ready to shoot. The reason it works is the same reason why I am not concerned with why people would argue against it. It works because like I said earlier it is more realistic. If a buck can hear the call they could hear you walk in. If they can hear you and see you they are going to ignore your call anyway because they just saw you. Now if you have good entrance screening and they could hear you but not see you; they will know something was walking through and your call will tell them it was a hot doe thus triggering a response. For both of these times my go to calls are a bleet grunt series. For this I bleet once. Then after roughly 5 to 7 seconds I grunt two consecutive times. During the second grunt I start one last bleet.

Lastly, the controversial blind grunt. A blind grunt is simply using a grunt call when you don't physically see a buck to call in. Some do it and other swear against it. Applying common sense I have my own take on it. Personally I do not have a problem with blind grunting. I have never seen evidence it scared anything away. Like using any other calls it poses the risk of scaring a deer away because they can see you and you don't know they are there. On the contrary, it has been my experience that deer don't hear an audible grunt all that far away unless the tube is pointed directly at them. With that said if you point your tube at dense cover there is no reason you should be scared.  Think about it this way. If a buck is within range then it isn't a blind grunt. And if there isn't a buck that can hear it anyway, what are you going to scare away?

In closing I want to stress that everyone's hunting land is different. And every area has different factors working for or against you and for these reasons different calling techniques work better accordingly. However, softer is usually better because you can't be too soft only too loud. Hope to hear your feedback good, bad, or otherwise. Please follow this blog for future posts. Thank you for reading and Happy Hunting!

Hinge Cutting: Soup To Nuts

Winter is in full force which means the foliage is gone, bugs are dead, and everything is frozen. Most are inside where its warm waiting for the spring thaw to get outside. I on the other hand have learned to love this time of year. This is the pinnacle time of year to make a real impact on manipulating your deer's habitat. The number one tool in any manipulators arsenal is hinge cutting. What is hinge cutting you might ask? To put it simply, it is cutting a tree about 60% the way through in order to bend it over so the top is at ground level. But this method of manipulation gets way more complex than that. On the plus side it is inexpensive, doesn't kill the tree, and can create various outcomes to control the movement of deer.

Above is a photo of a tree I hinge cut in combination with others to make a bedding area

Hinge cutting can be used to achieve a variety of things.   Mainly it is used in such a way to create bedding areas specific to bucks or does. Hinge cutting can be used to create a funnel. It can also be used to screen the entrance and exit of a hunter to his blind. Hinge cutting can also be used to impede the deer's travel to undesirable locations such as a neighboring property. Each desired outcome requires different considerations when cutting each tree.

1.  Creating Bedding Areas

Hinge cutting to make a bedding area is very effective if done right. All a person needs is a chainsaw and a will to work up a sweat. First you must find an area which has standing timber 6" to 9" in diameter. This selected area should also be dry. It works best if a person selects a few areas about one to three acres in size. To create this bedding area the trees need to be hinge cut about 5 feet above ground level in order for deer to be able to travel underneath it. For the purpose of bedding, the direction the tree falls is immaterial because the more tangled it becomes the better. Keep in mind that if a few areas are made stand locations between them can prove to be excellent for harvesting mature bucks. Also it is important to leave trees which provide an excellent source of food standing. A buck bedding area is made using the exact same method with just a few minor twists. First pick a tree you would like the buck to bed next to. Second hinge cut a smaller area of trees surrounding the selected tree making sure to leave an entrance and exit path. Third make sure the ground on the windy side of the tree is flat, has good drainage, and is free of debris or foliage. It might be necessary to rake the area as to remove any sort of nuisance to the laying buck. Lastly, lay a log on the ground against the trunk on the backside of the future bed. When the bed is finished the buck when laying down should be facing the wind with his back to the tree and surrounded by cover provided by the hinge cut tree tops. Make sure to revisit a buck bed once in awhile to clear any sticks or debris that has fallen in it. When clearing it you should also search for hair or sign it is being used. Once you find it being used check it less often and at off peak bedding times.

I find that mid winter is the best time to make bedding areas for a couple reasons.  The first reason being that deer love the sound of chainsaws. One can almost bet that when the cutting stops they will soon be in to investigate only to find new browse.  Another reason is that the deer are in search of browse and will find the area when they are grouped up. Finding it now means they will most likely use it later. Especially a small buck that splits from his mom. If he takes a bed that you created in a way you kind of own him. If your able to keep him close by chances are you will have an opportunity to harvest him when you feel he is ready.

2.  Creating A Funnel

Funnels are natural areas where trails squeeze together. Most common forms of funnels are creek bottoms, shallow spots of a stream, or a narrow strip of cover between two areas of little to no cover. To create a funnel by hinge cutting you first need to determine that natural path of the animals you want to hunt. Then by hinge cutting a tree about five feet up the tree and pulling it across the trail you want to create and alternating the direction you pull the tree over; you can create a trail for the deer with cover on both sides. One key factor in this is not making the sides of the new trail so thick the deer can't escape it. If it is too thick the deer will not use the trail because it is too confining. This trick works well for bow hunting because it will steer the deer to where you choose thus allowing you closer to make a shot.

3.  Screening Your Travel To Your Stand.

A hunters travel to and from his stand can often be his downfall.  All too often hunters are spotted by the deer they seek before they even step foot on their ladder. In an attempt to be more stealthy a hunter can hinge cut trees in a fashion to mask their travel. This is down by hinge cutting the trees perpendicular to the trail you walk in. Again, the cut should be made about five feet up the tree as to allow travel underneath. By falling the trees perpendicular and at staggered distances from the trail it does not create an impassible barrier but rather cover for the hunter to move undetected. In this case one has to be careful not to go too crazy but rather cut just enough.

4.  Impeding The Travel Of Deer

No one wants to admit they don't like their neighboring landowner but sometimes its the hard truth. In my opinion more times than not the demise of a small landowners success is at the mercy of what the neighbor views as a trophy. With that said, hinge cutting is an inexpensive way to create a fence. This desired outcome takes a little more planning and skill than the others but effective nonetheless.  For this purpose the cut should be made roughly between two and three feet up the base of the tree. The tree should fall the direction you would have a fence go. A few key factors should be considered when making the necessary cuts. First plan out a few trees ahead so you can lay the previous ones ass close to the base of the next one as possible. Keep laying the trees down in a line making sure there isn't a gap big enough for a deer. Deer will naturally avoid jumping unless they must.  One other use for this particular method is creating a no deer zone behind your tree stand. By hinge cutting a fence like row behind your tree stand it forces the deer to come in to your area from elsewhere. To be more effective you can cut it in a "V" shape with your stand at the point. Therefore if a deer is coming in from behind you it forces them to one side or the other. In return, you will create for yourself a sure kill shot opportunity as well as restrict the likeliness of you being winded.

I hope to hear about your experiences hinge cutting as well as any questions you may have.  Feel free to post any of your own experiences and implications of hingecutting to this blog. Please follow my articles by email or social media for future tips. 

Scent Control: What Matters For Different Hunters!

Scent control is without a doubt a money maker for the hunting world.  I sometimes feel an entire department store could be filled with scent masking products.  The question gets asked do they really work or is it simply a money maker?  It would be hard to say either answer is wrong.  Scent without a doubt can be a deal breaker when hunting a mature deer.  With that said, I believe it is overemphasized in many situations.

First and foremost if you are just starting out and have to buy camouflage anyway; by all means buy something with scent blocking or eliminating technology.  However, if you are like most and have a budget to consider then you might want to ask yourself a few questions before making the switch.

How much time do you spend on the land you hunt?

I listed this question first because I believe this is the biggest area where scent control can be grossly overrated.  I will take me for example.  When I was younger and on the go I did not spend much time on the land I hunt.  This being a few years ago, there wasn't much of any options as far as scent control.  I found that I was being winded a lot hunting in the swamp and not as much on the field.  It seemed when I hunted over a bait in the swamp I would hear the infamous scent busting deer blow almost half of the time.  In other words I would have benefited greatly having a product available today to help mask my scent.  Fast forward several years and the market is flooded with products.  To date I own only extreme weather scent control clothing and found I get no difference in the amount of times I am busted.  How is this so? Simple, I spend a lot of time on the property doing various activities.  I am part of the everyday scents of the land not associated with danger.  Just like a deer associates a chainsaw with food, they associate smells with different things.  So if you live on the property you hunt, chances are you don't need to invest in scent technologies.  If you are checking cameras, cutting wood, or simply enjoying your property frequently then you probably don't need scent controlling technology.  Now if you don't spend as much time as you would like on your hunting land, then by all means invest. 

 What season are looking to hunt?

Different seasons are different on almost every level and it is no different for scent control.  So if you are hunting archery season you are more likely to need scent control then if you are hunting rifle season.  Now if your area is a shotgun only region then you might put more weight in scent control than if you hunt with a high powered rifle.  So simply ask yourself how close are you to the deer you plan to harvest.

What terrain do you hunt in?

Terrain can be a crucial factor in deciding if you need to upgrade your wardrobe.  If you find yourself in a cedar swamp where the air movement is more stagnant you should emphasize on scent control.  On the flip side if you are on an open field you probably don't need to take much notice to the issue.

What are you hunting for?

Lastly, everyone's goals are different and their scent control needs change with those expectations. Are you the hunter who is out for meat and the weight of the deer means no more to you than how many meals you will get?  If so you shouldn't be worrying about scent control as much as the horn hunter.  Now if you are like me and are interested in a mature buck, scent control matters a whole lot more and you might not want to take the chance.

I do want to mention a few last points for you to consider on scent control.  If you decide to use a spray, soap, or cleaning product please don't.  I say that for the following reasons.  If you can smell it yourself then the deer can smell it too.  If the deer can smell it then I am willing to bet it isn't a natural smell they come across in the woods.  And lastly if you have a significant other and like them even a little bit then don't even consider using fox urine or any other urine to cover your scent.  Yes, I have tried it.

Cutting Shooting Lanes: 5 Things To Consider

An excellent stand location can easily be ruined if proper considerations aren't taken when cutting shooting lanes. All too often hunters take to the woods with chainsaws in hand to cut lanes with no real plan. For those that feel this topic is self explanatory, you are correct but if you were never taught or you never put thought in to it. you may need help. The idea I take with me out in the woods is this: If someone came in to your house and rearranged your living room you would probably notice before you entered it. Now if someone moved a few items in your living room you wouldn't notice until you were already standing inside the room. The same rules apply for deer. If you are the one that notices the few items moved before you enter the room, congratulations you are the trophy deer. Below is a compiled list of things to consider when clearing shooting lanes.

1. Holes Instead Of Lanes. This is going to be different for rifle hunters and bow hunters but the same theory applies. Don't clear away areas you cant shoot anyway. Don't take a tree down next to your stand that only needed a few limbs cut. The more cover you can leave the more secure they feel traveling. For example when I cut a shooting hole to a bow bait in a swamp I literally cut just that, a hole through the branches.

2. Don't Cut Them Too Wide. Again the application of this is different for your weapon of choice. Archery being more of an intimate hunt, a hunter will see his trophy and be ready for when the animal steps in his lane or hole. With that in mind it doesn't make sense to make the shooting lane very wide. A rifle stand needs wider lanes to allow the hunter to get ready. But think like a deer and you will think of a lane as danger because to them they look the same as a road. So again plan your cuts and look ahead down the lane to see if it will actually make a difference.

3. Know The Prevailing Wind. Try to select a stand location so you can cut your lanes so the wind goes across them not down them. The idea is that the deer cross your lane instead of using it as a trail. This way it will also cut down on your scent getting you busted. Every area has a dominant wind direction for a given season. If you don't know what the usual wind direction is in your area then I suggest you figure it out before you cut anything.

4. Know Your Deer's Natural Travel. I made this mistake when I was first starting out and spent many years wondering why I wasn't seeing anything. When I finally figured it out I felt dumb. Know where your deer are going whether it be to eat, sleep, or drink. Then know where they are going for each and the general times they travel. The focus then is to cut them off with your shooting lane. Its that simple. The mistake I made wasn't that I was in the wrong place but rather my lane was north and south and the deer were traveling the same direction. So they just walked their own paralleling trail.

5.Don't Cut Right Angles. I saved the biggest tip for last. Hunters have a tendency to cut lanes straight out from their three windows leaving the stand door at their back. Good stand setup but lousy lane planning. Cut the lanes just off 90°. When you do this it gives you a few advantages. First it allows you to look down each lane without moving much. Secondly it prohibits the deer from silhouetting you through the opposite window and lane.

There are so many different considerations to entertain in different settings. I hope these five will give you a good start and if nothing else get you thinking on the right track.

The Day I Was Hooked On Deer Manipulation

It was the 2010 Wisconsin Rifle Season and I was hunting my usual stand in my family's swamp. This stand had shooting lanes that were made years earlier by a bulldozer. Since the bulldozer had pushed everything over, water filled in the holes creating more of creeks than lanes. At any rate at the far end of one lane was a narrowing and a slight curve followed by a ninety degree corner. This narrowing had made seeing any deer in the last twenty yards or so almost impossible. My brother's lane ends at this very corner from the other direction. In that 2010 season my brother had seen his usual amount of deer which included does visiting daily and an assortment of bucks on a regular basis. I on the other hand saw nothing. This was extremely discouraging but not surprising seeing is how his stand has always been the hot stand. I took notice that season to something that would forever change the game for me though. One day I walked over to his stand at the mid-day break and noticed that in the twenty yards not visible to either of us were a plethera of tracks. Not just any tracks but tracks of a heavy deer. They had the signature of a mature buck with the split toes and the drag marks leading to the print. I didn't ponder on it too much until after season when I had more time to reflect.

When I began to think about the deer trail I saw I couldn't help but feel like it made no difference how much time a person puts in to getting their stand ready if your gonna overlook the details. So I began thinking of ways I could manipulate the trails deer take. I finally made my mind up that I was going to erect a fence in order to prohibit movement in the undesired area. So I went to the hardware store and bought a twenty dollar spool of electric fence wire and a bag of staples. I went out late winter and began stringing fence wire from tree to tree and vertically every two feet or so as high as I could reach. I did this on the corner where the deer had a dominant path and closed it off. When I finished, the deer were no longer able to cross either lane without being visible from one stand or the other. I was pretty confident that it was going to work.

Fast forward now to the 2011 gun season. I had vacated my stand for one that was showing greater promise. Nonetheless my brother stayed true to his stand and sat the whole season. That is until the Friday of the closing weekend when he decided to head back the many miles to where he lives. It was then time for my late cousin to sit in his stand because many of us were back to work. That afternoon my cousin saw a few doe and soon realized one of which was hot. Bucks began coming out from all directions which pushed the doe to the corner where I installed the fence. Then the big guy stepped out rounding the fence. My cousin shot him and retrieved it a short distance later. What was remarkable was not that he got the nice buck but that if the fence hadn't been there the logical exit point for him was in the blind spot. My cousin was sure that without the fence he would have never bagged his buck of a lifetime. My cousin's life was taken a year and a half later.

Since this first successful attempt on controlling deer I have learned a few things. First, don't attempt a fence like I did for a long stretch. Keep it to 20 or 30 yards. It is after all in the woods and many things can fall and break your hard work. Secondly, hinge cutting is way more practical and natural. Nonetheless either method will work and both are equally effective.

How to read a buck rub!

I remember as a kid going in the woods with my dad and we would look for deer sign. It was a game to see who could spot a buck rub first. Like all dads that ever took the time to do this with their sons, mine let us win sometimes. Nevertheless to this day it is still a race when we go in the woods together. But what is a buck rub and why do they create them? Unlike scrapes, I think the mainstream hunting world has this topic under control. But why would I waste my time with this post if I didn't have my own two cents to add? My two cents isn't necessarily about why they make them but how can we as hunters read them.

When I find a rub in the woods I look for a few think. I do this in an attempt to sometimes uncover crucial information about that particular buck.

1.  Size of the rub
When I say size of the rub I am talking about a few things. Mainly I am looking at the diameter of the tree. The larger the tree generally equates to a larger buck. All big tree rubs are big bucks but not all small tree rubs are from small bucks. I then look at how far around the tree the rub goes, this too generally will tell you the more of the tree the rub wraps around the bigger he is.

2.  Which way the rub faces
Now that we have determined the particular rub belongs to a buck worth knowing more about, we can attempt to figure him out. Which way a rub faces will tell you which way he is traveling.  If you are standing in front of a tree that has a rub and you can see the rub then the buck who made it was generally traveling the way you are facing.  By knowing this and knowing the surrounding terrain one can usually pinpoint where they are traveling to and from. This becomes a lot easier if you can find more rubs in a particular line or spot.  If you apply common sense you can usually figure out why he was in the particular area.

3.  Overall location and quantity of rubs
It seems that bucks will make more rubs entering and leaving bedding areas and areas of congregation. For example if you have a large plantation of spruce trees and find a lot of beds inside, you will usually find more rubs in a particular location on the edge. This would indicate that particular buck's entrance or exit of that area depending on the direction the rub faces. Now if you incorporate a trail camera you can pinpoint the buck making the rubs and the time he is moving through. Now compare the time of the photo to the travel time you know the deer to be moving in the area and can determine if he is sleeping in the bedding area or cruising it for doe.  In other words if the deer in your area are generally eating and moving at night and you discover a buck is leaving an area towards the evening hours, you can make an educated assumption that follow his trail backwards and you will find his bed near by.